ROBERT NEITHART, Special to The Denisonian

At 425 S Main St, sitting to the right of the old bones of the Ohio Central Railroad lies Station; a somewhat quiet, unsuspecting space and home to the latest project of Granville resident and restauranter; Chris Crader. Station is just one of a number of new and forthcoming businesses that have emerged in the little town of Granville, Ohio in recent months, a development that Clerk of Council Autumn Klein credit’s to the close-knit community that supports and uplifts its local businesses. 

Joining Station is Gilded Social, a bridal shop on E Elm Street that opened its doors this past June. Still coming is a new Harvest Pizzeria location–another Crader project, a pretzel shop, a back-to-school store, and an interior design office. Among the first businesses travelers encounter as they enter town, Station seeks to “Change the perception of what people see in Granville.” 

Between the smart design of the interior and exterior space, the concise menu of tasteful offerings, and the sustainably sourced produce, the team behind Station ensures that perception is evident as it is positive. 

When thinking of words to describe Station and the philosophy that guides Crader’s projects, no word seems to fit better than one: purpose. Himself a veteran of the restaurant industry, Crader knows all too well the shrouded, unglamorous nature of the culinary underbelly. He knows it would probably be easier to order his kale from some farm in California, contributing to an already broken supply chain wherein the term “fresh” becomes a topic of conjecture, local purveyors are all but forgotten, and the carbon footprint of America’s food system becomes just a bit larger. 

Instead, Crader sources his ingredients from local farms and chef’s gardens, working with between thirty and sixty purveyors throughout the year, accounting for about 98% of his restaurant’s needs. 

When asked why he makes the effort to foster relationships with local farmers and purveyors, Crader said it’s all about “Fulfilling our mission by supporting somebody else’s dream.” He says that Station exists to provide the best service possible; the economics follow second. 

Set to join Station toward the end of November is the fifth installment of Crader’s celebrated Harvest Pizzeria chain, a slightly more upscale establishment but nevertheless guided by the same principles that underpin Station. It’s Crader’s goal that Denison students get a taste of Harvest pizza before we leave for winter break; fingers crossed. With all there is to love about Denison, there’s no denying that the spaces we occupy and the places we frequent often have a proclivity to become insipid, if not a little dull, after a while. 

The value of a change of scenery is often undersold; however, when that change of scenery manifests in a nineteenth-century train station that has been stylishly refurbished with modern accompaniments and fixtures, along with a myriad of fresh, seasonal offerings, the value becomes harder to undersell. 

If ever you’re feeling the price of isolation on the hill, head down to Station; after all, there’s no panacea like cream cheese and bagels.